joburt

In the cover of darkness a journey begins, four beings gathered from far away lands known as Czech and England. Emma, Lee, Petra and Sarka join to complete their quest of walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

In recent years the battle against the evil thieves who target cars, motorhomes, and other modes of transport in the car parks have left people with little choice but to succumb to the call of the shuttle bus companies, or to be in anguish and worry during the day.

Sharing in the experience of paying $40 we joined the bus with more and more people following, eventually outnumbering the amount of seats. Beating the crowds on the earliest of the shuttles at 6am was not looking hopeful.

Low level mist surrounded the bus, only to clear upon arrival amongst the shadow of Mt Ngauruhoe or Mt Doom as some may know it. A miraculous plan to hold back for ten or so minutes adjusting straps, slapping on the sun cream saw the crowds disappear.

Setting off we began by following the Mangatepopo Stream and soon approached the soda springs, which gives a final glance at lush greenery, as the scene from now on would consist of black lava flows, dusty crater floors, snow, and all colours of rock.

With the path steepening at the Mangatepopo Saddle, the shadow of Mt Tongariro appears, huge, bulky and covered in snow it marks the direction of the crossing to continue. Looking right however the challenge to climb Mt Doom shouts out.

Petra and Sarka decided to remain on the trail to enjoy the scenery, and take the day at their own pace wishing us good luck and encouragement for the climb ahead we said goodbye for now. Knowing we would have alot of time to catch up we fuelled up with bananas and water.

Mt Ngauruhoe is a classic cone shaped volcano of 2km 600m detour with an average time to complete of three hours. Steep, and covered in scree it is known as a two steps up and one step back experience. But something I’m glad not to have missed, to follow in the footsteps of hobbits.

Getting into a rhythm quickly helped to save energy and I was delighted to have chosen to wear my huge boots, as they gave more grip. Kicking steps in the snow also helped ascend the steep slopes. A fair few people had decided to tackle the slope, opting for the direct path up the mountain. It was soon apparent of the dangers of the scree, large rocks started to tumble down the hill side “Below, Below” began to sound amongst the crowds as the people above unshifted lose rocks. There was a shoot out “Over here” it was Lee who had traversed over to the solid ridge, he had found the proper accent route, rather than the decent route everyone was tackling, I soon crossed over as did many others.

The rest of the climb was a breeze and before we knew it we were on the summit looking down into the huge crater below. We caught our breathe and had a nibble, but couldn’t hang around for long due to the swam of flies that clung to you once you stopped. We traversed around the crater taking in the view over to the mountains of Taranaki, Ruapehu, and Tongariro. Here we were at the height of Mordor, any Lord of the Rings fan would be proud. The decent was fun, scree running down the mountain took no time at all, and since everyone was ascending up the ridge there was no danger. Also by our shock and surprise we were joined by a German lad who had tackled the whole climb in mere converse!

Emptying my shoes of dirt and stones, I became aware of somebody sneaking around behind some boulders, this creature knew my name and was calling. Slowly I approached although the voice was anxious for me to be quick, I grabbed the camera and to my surprise I saw him, Gollum’lee.

The trek continued across a hot dusty plateau, heading towards the south crater, a steep ridge then brought us upto red crater, which was a spectacle of all shades. Continuing up a little furthar and then the descent was insight, but not truly before we passed by the beautiful Emerald lakes. The weather had turned out to be perfect as the sun wasn’t too hot but shined enough to really make the colours vibrant, no wonder this walk is regarded as one of the most spectacular.

As energy was draining we kept moving, the urge to sit down was not worth the effort it would take to get up again. The wind had picked up when we arrived at blue lake and Lee suggested that we get to the Keteahi hut, before digging into more egg butties, I agreed not realising how much further that still was. However the only way was down now, so a little jog brought those delicious sandwiches that much closer.

Leaving the hut, the descent continues, at first along knee height bush, getting higher the lower you go, but as the path is well marked it doesn’t take too much effort. Jumping down steps also helped with our progress as we were aiming to get the 4 o’clock shuttle. Nearing the end the walk brings you deep into the bush, with a river running alongside hidden in the trees, rounding the corner and our nine hour tramp was over.

Hoping to tempt some of you out here with this incredible tramp, for others we just wanted to share it with you.

Lots of Love

Em and Gollum’lee xxx

With plans for being back in Wanganui for bonfire night we hit the road and enjoyed a couple of days travelling. Discovering the sites on the central west side. Visiting beaches, Waitomo Caves and more beautiful waterfalls. We soon arrived at Raglan, a surfing community which is known for some of the best left hand breaks in the world only to discover the sea was as flat as a pancake!

Te Waihou Walkway felt like a hidden wonderland, and as the sun shone we were amazed by the the blue spring, and the crystal clear water which is taken further up stream and used by a water company. Lee couldn’t resist a quick dip even though the stream maintains a temperature of 10°C come summer and winter. The local thought he was crazy to be in there this time of the year, I agreed and kept him talking as Lee retrieved his clothes.

Laster in the day we arrived at Wharepapa South and enjoyed our first proper rock climbing venture in NZ at a crag called Froggatt Edge. Without a guide book we just attempted what looked good and as it was bolted we just relaxed and enjoyed the climbs. Lee missed the little nest in a crack of the wall, however I was delighted to spot some chirpy little chicks but moved on quickly as they looked hungry.

The drive back to Wanganui took us alongside the Rangitikei River, which carves through the land. We stopped off at a golf course in an attempt to get access to the river and the owner was more than happy for us to wonder around the green and do just so. As his front room view he also explained the change in the rivers path over the years.

Bonfire night turned into a good party at Ben and Sarah’s, with many of the friends we have already met turning up. The fire was an impressive size and Maxine couldn’t control her excitement and started the fireworks whilst it was light, but there was more than enough to keep them going on through the night.

The celebrations continued on throughout the weekend with an art exhibition being held for the 2010 graduates from the local art college, ‘A Bourgeous Spectacle’ which included the work of Iva Leonard. Rumours spread that it was an occasion to dress up for, and even though traveling can usually excuse your appearance on a daily basis we couldn’t let the side down. Much thanks to Maxine who whipped a little number out from somewhere, and giving Lee a few options, even though he did opt out of wearing them. It was my fault I couldn’t stop laughing at seeing him in a tight purple top with a funky waistcoat, i’m sorry there is no photo. The Japanese drumming was an incredible opening, and the work was impressive. Our evening finished off with kebabs and the Wanganui firework display, which we had the best view of from Libby’s back garden.

The following week we were welcomed in by the Mokha family, who moved over from England to enjoy life in the countryside and develop a small hold. Prabh, Emma and the two girls Katja and Yelena made us feel very welcome. Along with Nippy and Lucky the horses, Rocky the Pony, Whizzy the golden lab, Pixie the sheep who thinks he’s a dog, Lottie the blind chicken and the cats O’Marly and Shelly. As a first for them and us we arranged to be there as woofers as well as friends. Being fed well and being given the opportunity to go horse riding we were delighted to be there and help out with some light decorating.

After developing some trust with Nippy over the week, I was so happy to of saddled her up and headed out for a ride alone, its a first and as a horse lover, a dream come true. It was really cool seeing Lee up there and enjoying it too, although he was glad to get stuck in with some jobs and even went over to Ben’s to help with some fencing.  As our relations have developed with so many people in Wanganui it has become a home from home, and invitations to go back are sure to be followed up.

We have now gone on holiday, to stay at Ben’s Bach. A lovely holiday home hidden away on the side of Lake Taupo in a place called Kuratau. The sun has been shining and it has been such a relaxing few days. The garden was a bit of a jungle and with garden tools collecting webs, Lee was eager to get them out. Grass cutting, tree trimming, wood chopping and brash burning has kept him sneezing with his heyfever, but he loves it, and when it gets cooler in the afternoons we have been out in the canadian canoe on the lake. Whilst we are here we hope to do the Tongariro Crossing and visit the North Islands top climbing venue, but for now we are content to just be.

Thinking of our family and friends at the moment and just send lots of love and thanks for reading.

xxxx

Founded on the banks of the Whanganui River, New Zealand’s Longest navigable watercourse, Wanganui is one of New Zealand’s oldest cities, and a place where we were able to base ourselves for a few a days.

We met up with Jimmy, who some of you may know as Mr Leonard, and Iva at their place just outside of town. It was a strange moment meeting up with an old school teacher, who I last saw 7 years ago at the spotty age of 16.

They welcomed us into their home with a cold beer and a good catch up. We soon met the rest of the family, the three feline boys and the two free range girls, sure to lay every day.

We couldn’t of planned our arrival any better, as Jimmy had his citizenship ceremony the next day. He was now a true kiwi and was able to obtain a NZ passport. The celebrations went on until early hours of the morning with many of their friends turning up to party. It was good to be there as part of Jimmy’s past in Mossley but also to celebrate his future life here with Iva.

We spent our time in Wanganui seeing the sites and driving out to some of the local beaches. We visited Ben and Sarah, good friends of Jimmy and Iva’s, and relaxed in their garden with the sun shining, taking a tour of their incredible garden and lavander crop and meeting stinky, their pet goat and honey bees. Visiting Prabh and Emma’s, was also a real treat for my Em as she got a chance to go for a horse ride. We also took a trek up through the bush to take in the views of the valley surrounding their home and ended the evening with a delicious supper.

On the 26th we decided to hit the road again, heading west towards ‘Surf Highway 45’ stopping for the night at Waiinu Beach. An excellent stop for travellers, as you can stay here for upto two months for free, but a donation is appreciated. We had hoped to get the rod out and try to catch some tea but local weekend campers Pamela and Eric soon informed us the fishing here was pretty poor however if we wait till low tide we could feast on mussels. With a few hours to wait Eric came round with a treat for us to try, freshly caught whitebait in whisked egg to fry up and make a fritter “something to keep you going till low tide.” To buy these tiny little fish costs over $100 a kg so we enjoyed them whilst they lasted before we collected a bucketful of mussels and sea lettuce for tea.

The Surf Highway passes around the provence of Taranaki, which juts out west from the rest of the North Island forming a peninsula centred on Maunga Taranaki/Mt Egmont, an elegant conical volcano rising 2518m from the subtropical coats to its icy summit. Setting our eyes on the mountain we thought it was truly stunning so we camped out alone under its shadow.

Travelling around the mountain we arrived at New Plymouth, said to be the best liveable city in the world. We explored the city, took a walk along the coastal walkway alongside the famous Wind Wand and strolled through the beautiful park and free zoo. That evening we camping down on the docks and finally got the rod out, but unfortunately the fish weren’t biting so we settled with fish and chips instead.

The next morning we met up with Guy, Bev, Nicole and Lauren, a lovely family who are good friends of another lovely family ‘The Peats’ back at home in Galgate. We have really enjoyed our stay here, along with the food and hearing about their travels in Lancaster we have felt at home ourselves.

Since we’ve been in Taranaki there has been one thing we can’t escape, and thats the mountain. Its a popular outing in the summer, as the most climbed mountain in New Zealand, but when the snow is covering the summit climbing it is another matter. We hired some crampons and ice axes from ‘Kiwi Outdoors’ in New Plymouth and set out for the summit the following day.

The summit is a 8-12hr return trip from the visitor centre at North Egmont. We reached the mountain hut in good time, by this point the winds had began to increase but we pushed on into the snow line. Kitted up with crampons and axe we headed up into the steep sheltered gully, it was not until we traversed onto the north ridge that we got a true taste of the winds, we pushed on a little bit further until we were blasted by shards of snow and ice, which felt like horizontal hailstone. We were 30m or so from the crater rim, but you’ve got to be sensible about these things, so we decided to call it a day. I got a ‘it will always be there lad’ moment. It was an excellent day and it was good to get some alpine action in, we’ll have to save this climb for another day.

We are due to leave New Plymouth tomorrow and head north to discover the rest of the highway.

Thanks to everyone who has made this leg so enjoyable and memorable.

Lee & Em
xxx